I feel like I should begin with, "forgive me readers for I have sinned....its been a full week since my last post!"
The truth is...we've been kind of busy...not sure at what but the days have slipped by! Our time on Gili Air was so great that we ended up extending out stay there by two additional nights and loved every minute of it. We got into the swing of riding our bikes wherever we wanted to go. We sunned (well...we stayed under our umbrellas because we are at the equator after all!) and we swam (well....Lynda swam and I stood), and we just enjoyed our vacation because that is what it felt like. We live on Bali and we had a little vacation on Gili Air. One day Lynda went off on a snorkel boat and I went for a bike ride. My bike ride wasn't as eventful as her excursion though. Her highlight was swimming with the turtles and the not so highlight was that there was such a torrential downpour that she ended up having to walk back (about a mile) through knee deep water as the roads were all flooded and the boat wasn't able to get back to shore any closer than that! Bottom line....both of us agree....we'd go back to Gili Air in a heartbeat....it's a magical world like nowhere either of us have ever been before.
Our return from Gili Air turned out to be a little longer than planned as our boat had something wrong with it that day and so wasn't sailing. As a result we were reassigned to another boat but that vessel wouldn't be leaving till after noon and we were there in time for our 10:30 departure so it was a bit of a wait. Luckily...the scenery was amazing (no surprise there) and we even had the pleasant surprise of an nice little "extra" visit with Leni (a beach vendor we'd become friends with). Leni was just getting off her boat from Lombok (where she lives) when she spied us in the crowd waiting at the harbour so she made a beeline for us to have one final hug goodbye. We almost didn't recognize her as we'd never seen her without her headscarf, sunhat and goods for sale hanging about her neck and balanced atop her head. What a treat to get to see her as 'just Leni' for our final farewell. She is 30 years old and has been working that same beach on Gili Air for 22 years. She began the job at the age of eight with her mom and her sister (who was even younger) and has been doing it ever since. There was a time when she dreamt of becoming a doctor but now her dreams are for her two sons and that is what motivates her to keep coming to work every day...just like people the world over.
We had another visitor as we waited for the boat at the harbour too. This one was not as welcome though! He crept up from the beach and came over the edge of the road right by my foot. Lynda just pointed and when I looked down I almost had a heart attack! It was a baby komodo dragon! Agggghhhhh! Now these little guys don't eat people but they sure do eat chickens and I think he was looking at my left foot like it might have been a chicken in disguise! Once the fright had worn off a little we had to admit that the little guy was really gorgeous. He had lots of markings and as colourful as a reptile can be...he was. LOL. Once he disappeared into the pile of wood and stuff that was on the beach there Lynda and I decided to move to a location just a little closer to where we'd eventually be able to board our boat and where hopefully there would be other left feet that looked like "dinner" in case he decided to present himself again.
Our trip across the water just meant one stop this time. The stop in Lombok was short, only those going to Lombok had to get off, and since Lombok is only about 15 minutes from Air the second leg of our journey was the long one. We'd left the harbour in Gili Air at about 12:20 and it was 2:30 by the time we were pulling into the dock at Pedang Bay on Bali. As soon as we stepped off our boat we were welcomed by the beautiful smile of our Ketut who had come with the driver to pick us up. We'd planned to have Jati pick us up but he had another long tour that came up so he'd made arrangements for a friend to drive us. Ketut came along so there wouldn't be any question about who's car we might be getting into. There is no question....the people we've met here and who have become family are very very thoughtful and caring.
As much as it might not seem like a long trip home from Air we were exhausted by the time we got back to Ubud. The day was smoking hot and the drive had taken well over 1 1/2 hours. To top it off the traffic was so bad right around Monkey Forest that we decided to get out and walk up the hill the rest of the way home rather than stay squeezed into the back seat of the car that was going absolutely nowhere. And truthfully....right there at the forest the aroma can get a little funky when the temperatures soar to what they were that day so we were glad for the escape even if it meant sweating our way up the hill to our place.
That was Friday night and Saturday morning we were up bright and early to hike up to the elementary school (just about 15 minutes from us) to be there in time to see the kids all turned out in full ceremonial attire in honour of this special day on the Balinese calendar that honours the goddess Saraswati. She is the goddess of knowledge and the arts and the day to honour her comes around just once every six months so the sleeping in would have to wait as we weren't about to miss seeing this event. Our timing at the school was perfect and so we were able to see the kids perform their prayers and offerings in the courtyard. There were about 300 kids at that school and it was great to be able to see them all engaged in this aspect of their culture. Prayers and offerings are such a huge part of life here in Bali and it is interesting to see how everyone (young and old) seems to embrace it with such discipline and respect. Having said that...there were a couple of little boys (about 7 yrs old) who were sitting in the back row of the assembly in the courtyard and one of them in particular was having a pretty tough time staying focused on the prayers and instead was more interested in poking his buddy in the ribs. His buddy was none to pleased about this though and it didn't take too long for peer discipline to take effect and the poking to cease. We were able to get some video of the kids and their school that have been posted to FB in case any of you would like to see just what that event looked like.
By afternoon (on another very warm day) we were beat and so it was an easy decision to fall into what seems to be a not so uncommon norm here...a short nap in the afternoon. Feeling revitalized by that we were up for the evenings activities as we were set to don our own ceremonial garb and head to a temple that was celebrating both Saraswati and the anniversary of that temple simultaneously. It was sure to be a huge turnout and that was exactly what we found! So many people in fact that we were unable to get inside! Even 1/2 of the street in front of the temple was filled with people sitting on the road. The police were there directing traffic around them and making sure all traffic gave the temple goers the right of way. Saying there were hundreds of people there to give offering would be an understatement. There is no doubt that there were more than a thousand and when you take into consideration that people come and go over the course of the day/evening there were likely several thousand at that one temple alone and when you further consider that there are more temples in Bali than can be counted....well.....lots and lots of people attended for Saraswati. Saraswati (like every special day) comes around just once every 6 months as it is based on the Balinese calendar. We are feeling so fortunate to be able to be here for several of these special days to get to see the level of engagement of the masses in their ceremonial rites. There is another huge ceremony that will take place during our time here. It is called Nyepi or Silent Day and it is the Balinese New Year celebration. The day prior to Nyepi there is much feasting and celebration and then on Silent Day the entire island shuts down! Even the airport will be closed! Nothing will be open. No one, not even tourists, will be allowed on the streets. If you have to go anywhere you have to be there before 6 a.m. and you can't leave that place until after 6 pm. Yep...that's going to be an interesting one for sure!
Yesterday, Sunday, was a great adventure and it all started with Pasek asking Lynda and I what our program was for the day. This is a question that he often asks and it just doesn't seem right to say, "nothing". So.....we just said....we're not sure yet and asked Mr Google what kind of things we might see/do around Ubud (that we haven't already seen/done). Luckily Mr Google is a seemingly endless resource and in no time at all we were booked in with Jati and Ketut (on the back of their bikes) for destinations of rice fields, an organic restaurant, and a village that is home to more than 10,000 herons every evening at dusk.
We left the house at 2:00 and didn't get home till after 7. For those of you who've been on the back of a bike...you know that is a long time. Granted, we stopped along the way for lunch and to walk for a bit (for reasons I will explain shortly) but it is still a long time to be on there when you're not used to it. Luckily we're both quick learners and our drivers are really really good and in spite of the fact that the whole business goes against every safety thing we've ever been taught (or taught our kids) all is well that ends well and we had what is probably one of our best days yet!
Our first "little walk" was when we got off the bikes so they could make it up a steep (very rough) hill that led up to the rice fields. As we climbed that hill we stopped to watch some workers as they bagged up sand and gravel and then packed those bags onto their motor bikes (bags on the back, bags in between their legs, bags on top of bags...they had as many as 5 large bags per bike). Once the bags were tied on as securely as anything is done when there are no safety measures in place they buzzed those bags up the hill to a location where roadwork was being completed.
At the top of the hill we hopped onto the back of our respective bikes and we were off on a skinny little path through the rice fields. It was breathtakingly beautiful, the sun was shining, there was no threat of rain, the wind was blowing by to keep us cool....it just couldn't have gotten any better. And then that skinny little lane turned into an even skinnier lane and then the lane turned into a rut and then the rut turned into a puddle and then the puddle turned back into a rut that was heading in the direction of a tiny piece of concrete that was a makeshift "bridge" over a creek that was adjacent to a cliff on one side and the rice terraces on the other. We both hung on for about 10 or 15 minutes of some very serious BUMPS and sketchy moments before we decided it was time to walk for a bit again where we could catch our breath.
So there we are....no helmets, flip flops on our feet, bare skin everywhere, and loving every minute. Having said that I should preface with the standard warning, "don't try this at home kids!" When in Rome you do as the romans and when in Bali you do as the Balinese and that is what we're doing. But I digress...back to the bikes and buzzing through the rice paddies. There were men and women working their fields in the traditional ways up past their knees in mud as they turned the previous years crop under with their "hoe". There were little "shops" along the path where silver smiths and painters displayed their art and where spices and coffee were for sale. There were moments of hair raising fright (although neither driver will ever admit to it) and there were times of absolute perfection as we buzzed along. The entire time our eyes were filled with sights that were so perfect there was nothing to do but blink in the hope that somehow the eyelids would be like the shutter of a camera and capture the scene in the photo album of our memories. Each field was like a checkerboard of colour ranging from muddy brown to shades of green with the odd block of water thrown in for variety. It was as though an artist had designed the scene it was so perfect and the day was so beautiful. Eventually we arrived at the organic restaurant, Sari Organik, where we enjoyed an amazing meal with even more amazing views and ambiance. I even had Kombucha with my lunch which reminds me...it's probably time that I disclosed that little story to you all cuz now in hindsight it is worthy of a laugh or two.
A couple of weeks ago....about the time that we returned from Lovina I decided it was time to try this Kombucha craze out. I've thought about it for a while and believe that it is probably really good for what ails you and since Ubud seems to be a health nut heaven...what better place than here. My first little taste of the nectar was at that fish spa where they gave us each a shot (1 oz) and a little kombucha and chia pudding treat. It was delicious and I figured...in for a dime might as well be in for a dollar and so the decision was made. This Kombucha stuff would from this point forward be a part of my daily routine. In fact, that very night I ordered a glass of it with my dinner (it's available at most restaurants here). It was different than the one that I'd had at the fish spa....I didn't like it as much but heh....what doesn't kill you makes you stronger right?! The next day we went to the show and there they sell kombucha by the bottle so I ordered a bottle of the stuff. It's kind of an acquired taste and I was beginning to acquire a taste for it so I drank the whole bottle. The next day I had it again....I had a glass of icy cold kombucha in the afternoon while Lynda had a coffee and then at dinner I had another glass. The next day I had some more and I think that is when it hit.....something was definitely working in my belly and for the next several days I couldn't be far from a bathroom! I think that is when I asked Mr Google about kombucha and discovered that it is best to build up to it. An ounce a day is best and eventually after a week or two you might get up to a glass at a time. Yikes! I guess I might have benefited from checking into this first before jumping into the deep end of the Kombucha pool! Its all good now though and I'm back onto Kombucha. This time I'm being a little easier on my system though and taking it in smaller doses....no more than a glass a day! Lesson learned and bowel definitely cleaned out! LOL
Now back to the bikes and the rice fields. We didn't come out of the paddies the same way we went in and I think the way out might have been a little smoother but as I type smoother I know that's a lie! There was nothing smooth about much of that path. However, the scenery was just as spectacular and the unique scarecrows and musical wind noisemaker we saw along the way were worth stopping for a photo. The musical wind chime was super cool but I wouldn't want to be near it for long as it is also very very loud!
As we buzzed through the fields we could see many of the white herons that feed in the rice paddies heading off into the sky. Their destination would be ours as well. We were off to the village that is home to 10,000 herons every night at sunset. Once out of the fields and onto the road it was smooth sailing and we literally flew along the smooth pavement and banked around the corners that were perfect for a motorbike. The only glitch came when we faced a very long very steep hill that we almost didn't make it up! Jati zigged and zagged from about 3/4 of the way up to maintain some momentum and then just before the top we started pushing with our bodies in a forward motion to will the bike to continue and finally the feet went down. First Jati pushed with his feet and then I added mine to the mix. It was Fred and Wilma Flinstone in action for the final few feet to the summit. Once we'd summitted we knew that nothing could stop us now. We'd survived the ruts in the fields, the path along a cliff, and a seemingly unreachable summit. Yep....these grandmas are taking big bites out of life and loving it. LOL
The village full of birds was exactly that. Once again, we were lucky and happened to be here at the very best time of the year to see the largest number of birds. They are currently nesting and so in addition to the adults there are also many many babies of all size. You might think this little village would want to get rid of the birds (cuz with them comes a lot of mess!) but no....they love the birds....the birds are considered to bring good luck and blessings to the village every night that they return. What a great attitude! As well, the birds provide a little extra income for the village. Tourists have to pay $2/person to come into the town and access the two viewpoints that have been built so you can get up to the height of the treetops where the view of the birds and the surrounding countryside/rice fields is breathtaking. This is also a very popular place to view the sunset so we were there at the best time of the day for that too.
One funny story abut our time in the village of the birds is that for the first time ever....Lynda was unprepared and Lorrie was totally prepared with an umbrella! The only problem is that Lorrie neglected to use her umbrella until after she'd been pooped on. On the upside....isn't it true that getting pooped on by a bird brings good luck? And when you consider that these birds are considered lucky just by the mere fact that they're here....wouldn't that then mean that getting pooped on by one of them would bring even greater luck? Thats the story I'm going with anyway. LOL
By the time we were on our way home it was after dark and all four of us had been on the bikes long enough to feel more than relaxed and comfortable so it was a great trip home with the cool wind blowing through our hair and the heat of the day behind us...yep....another great day and we capped this one off with a few bintangs on our patio for us and the boys. Pasek and his brother also joined us here and we had some more great laughs as we reflected on the adventures of our day.
Till next time,
L & L
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